Shantanu and Nikhil presented — "The Last Walk" – an array of gowns with brilliant ruffles, tulle skirts and capes. Rina Dhaka drew inspiration from early 90s and showcased a collection of sweater dresses, off shoulder knits and boat necks in blacks, golds, reds, and blues. He proved that he is still masterful at giving new shapes to coats, dresses, kurtas and dresses made in India with the most traditional of fabrics. So in this collection titled "The Dark Enchantress", we melded wool with different fabrics such as chiffons, neoprene, etc.Finally, Gaurav Gupta closed day one with a glam-packed line up of decadent gowns in nouveau drapes and cuts. For the coming season, the designer stuck to his signature elemental effect and golden sculpting on silhouettes and injected the clothes with a much darker, gothic vibe. Designer duo Hemant and Nandita’s show was a riot of colours. It is specifically aimed at Indian market and consumers. but a few like saris and blouses were wedged to the traditional. In the end, imitating Alexander Wang and his signature post-show run, Gupta took the final bow.. I don’t claim to be all organic but it is a start for me. Post the show, the duo said, "We aimed at creating a practical collection and we hadused various kinds of fabrics to suit different climatic conditions in the country.Jackets, bombers, tunics, slim trousers and A-line skirts set the tone for Varun Bahl’s catwalk show which featured his return to the ready-to-wear arena nearly after five years. The designer shaped his models with dresses, shirts and exterior capes using sheer silks, engineered cottons, hand-woven merino wools, tussar as well as matka silks and created a dramatic effect. We noticed that in India, people don’t wear a lot of wool or fur and instead they prefer breathable fabric." The following shows saw designer Kiran Uttam Ghosh using silver to the best of her creativity and showcasing a collection named after the colour. Titled "Melt", Gupta held his show outdoors with a theatrically long runway and showcased lots of ball gowns, asymmetrical jackets and frockcoats in flaming oranges, dark blazing blues, charcoal blacks, grays and pure whites. Some outfits played with the idea of modern silhouettes in the form of panelled dresses, kaftans, shirtdresses, etc. Borrowing the colour palette from the tropical forests of Gauguin, the collection comprised ivory, beige, teal, peach, mustard, olive, black, gold and pale rose.With Varun Bahl, Gaurav Jai Gupta, Hemant and Nandita, Pallavi Mohan, Shantanu and Nikhil, Kiran Uttam Ghosh, Rina Dhaka and Gaurav Gupta showcasing, day one was a mixed bag of wintery and not-so-wintery collections in the bi-annual fashion fiesta. Most of this collection is zero waster and we have draped the entire width of a fabric in a given garment," he said. Overall it was a fun collection and an excellent testament to India’s eclectic fashion scene.The Amazon India Fashion Week kicked off at Jawahar Lal Nehru Stadium on Wednesday, marking the start of the fall/winter 2016 presentations by several Indian designers. Known for taking inspiration from flora and fauna, Bahl stuck to his key element – floral in his collection "Nocturne". "In the wake of our city being called as one of the most polluted places in the world, I was shocked by the amount of people who participated in "Help Delhi Breather" campaign. With bright midnight blues, earthy browns, deep reds playfully mingling with clashing shiny fabrics in a splash of gold, copper, bronze and other jewel tones in the form of embroideries, the duo sent models strutting down the China four way stretch fabric Manufacturers catwalk in bold outwear with loose, droopy shoulder seams, deep V necklines, strappy shoulders and high (really high) slits along with oversized brushed wool and tweeds. Gaurav Jai Gupta of Akaaro was next and his collection, "Mumuksha", was a sartorial concoction
She took on the battle against copycats solo. There are many cases of alleged pilferage and one has to be equipped to understand if it is plagiarism or inspiration," says Samant Chauhan. You have to be one step ahead of the others. You have to apply for protection first and it shouldn’t be in public domain, plus, designers make so many clothes all year round, they can’t foretell what will work."Since then, it has been copied by every brand possible. They don’t realise that they need to protect their designs, considering the rampant copying that exists," says Safir, who has worked internationally with brands like Hermes and Louis Vuitton. There are basic silhouettes and one improvises as a designer and that’s where creativity lies. If you see Ralph Lauren has made his horses bigger to stop counterfeiting.Several designers have spent time to address this menace outside courtrooms – sent requests, letters, and notices, but in vain. Some big brands of the West were built on that: "repackaging" better what others created." — Ritu Kumar, fashion designerDamn! Same-to-same While several designers have taken to Instagram, Facebook and Twitter to name and shame copycats, plagiarism continues unabashedly. Most of them have promised never to do it again. In terms of silhouettes, you can’t claim copyright. What’s worrying is how blatantly they copy the images from our websites, social media and sometimes from our stores and put them to use without any fear," she adds.Fashion VigilanteAce designer Anita Dongre hoped the fashion world would fight plagiarism together, but it didn’t as egos precede reason. The copycats were renowned textile houses from Jaipur and a famous bridal wear store in Chandni Chowk, Delhi.Recently, she moved the Delhi High Court against infringement of her registered designs. In the long run, people get to know who are the real innovators and copycats. The best way to counter the counterfeiting market is to have your own affordable ready-to-wear brand that is scalable to every city in the country. The duo has been synonymous with drapes in Indian menswear with military chic details and minimalist structure. And the frontrunner of this campaign has been Sabyasachi Mukherjee. "The law takes its own time but at times it can get a bit exhausting. But with social media explosion in the last five years, the problem has attained gigantic proportions. "There is a lack of awareness in the fashion world. As a precautionary measure, we have undertaken legal remedies. Her husband Mukesh took the lead. Four years ago when they introduced it, their style became a fresh take in Indian occasion wear for men. We presented before court the similarity in the shape, configuration and ornamental surface pattern of the original ensemble and the copy," says Anita. As this is a creative effort however, I feel sometimes one tends to over step that line between inspiration and being too inspired, rocking the already fragile boat." Today, she cannot imagine going through the ordeal again. After all, imitation really isn’t the sincerest form of flattery!. He has mentioned about the countless hours he and his team put in to get the pattern, forms and prints right. If you ask me, I feel that copyright issues must be addressed in fashion and design schools so students can understand the concept of design.Believe it or not but 20 years ago, the doyen of Indian couture Ritu Kumar almost had to shut shop. Even today, Kumar shudders when she thinks about it. But in India, there is always that grey area that many exploit. The key to solve this is sticking to your signature and evolving it with time," he explains. In an age when clothes and designs are "ripped-off" by copycats from catwalks and peddled in boutiques and sidewalks in a matter of hours, designers and fashion houses are turning to intellectual property rights (IPR) to secure their trademark designs and register their sketches, artwork, colour palettes and ensemble.The challenge that plagiarism poses is that it affects the entire ecosystem."When you are an important voice and a power brand, plagiarism comes with the territory" — Sabyasachi Mukherjee"Social media has helped this cause enormously as you have evidence which is seen by millions. These cases need to be expedited so that no one dares to copy designers. The customers are hoodwinked into purchasing poor quality copies of the original. As and when third parties have copied our designs, we have immediately shot legal notices and even filed lawsuits to safeguard our rights," says Anita.Ideas can’t be copyrighted and in India, design laws are not stringent in terms of addressing plagiarism. He has helped many designers like Gaurav Gupta and Rajesh Pratap Singh to copyright their designs to counter plagiarism.Safir is on the Breathable Polyester stretch fabric board of the Fashion Design Council of India.The Laws of FashionTo bring about a distinctive change in the fashion world and stop the menace of plagiarism, Safir Anand, who runs an almost 80-year-old law firm Anand & Anand has been working in this field and was also awarded for its work on IPR.
They haven’t been defined in a way where one can make a case.When it comes to couture, there is an invisible line between "creative inspiration" and "plagiarism".Drapes & DupesPlagiarism and counterfeiting in the fashion world is a deep-rooted problem and Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra have been victims of counterfeiting."I think being in the fashion world what is most important is originality. Her cases are still pending before the court.Fashion vanguardWhile plagiarism of designs is a serious concern across the world and many designers vent their distress on social media, there are some self-appointed couture watchdogs like Diet Prada and Diet Sabya to name a few, who call out fakes and expose the copycat culture in the fashion world with cheeky captions and photos.Seeing the uproar that such incidents create whether it is Samant Chauhan vs Rohit Bal or Anamika Khanna’s young boys Viraj and Vishesh, who were in the eye of a storm, many have decided to take the legal recourse to ensure their designs remain unique. Tod’s protected the dots at the back of the shoes and Burberry protected the ‘check’ as a trademark not a design," says Safir. It has come to a point where some large apparel stores have gained a cult following for stocking duplicates of our designs and those of other designers. Also, innovation is at an all-time low and in the case of artisans it’s problematic as it takes away their share of livelihood, which is generated out of the quantum of purchase of the original work of art. But in India, there is always that grey area that many exploit."Our bridal lehengas and fabric prints are constantly copied.In fact, many celebrities and designers religiously follow these virtual watchdogs to avoid fashion faux pas and check if their designs are being copied. No one can copy Coca Cola abroad and get away with it.""Our laws are not sympathetic. So a significant amount of research went into assessing the magnitude of the problem. "We obtained ex–parte ad interim injunction orders from the HC restraining them from manufacturing or dealing in any kind of garment, lehenga etc. After that experience we register all our designs. It all depends which audience you are catering to. The screens that she had designed and printed (12 of them) had been stolen and sold in Kolkata – and everyone was copying her designs."I believe plagiarism is a worldwide issue that cannot be stopped."We are extremely vigilant of our intellectual property rights (IPR) and assets and therefore, we have secured various trademark, design registrations etc.
Then there is The RFID tag is sewn into a bag or clothing and buyers can use their phone to scan the tag for verification," explains Safir. In fact, we have summoned the culprits with cease and show cause notices in many cases. There is a physical and, more importantly, mental cost to seeing one’s work being blatantly copied and undermined every single day.Copycats & CopyrightSafir feels that some designers are penny wise, pound foolish, as they don’t understand the importance of IPR. They had to set up an entire team within the company to issue notices to merchants who copy their work. Let others copy you, it will only add to your glory in the eyes of everybody," she says."Our laws are not sympathetic. After the notices, we as a team constantly monitor the culprits.A stitch in time saves nineAs one of the bigger design houses in the country, which caters to men and women across all age groups, Anita has always had some amount of her designs and silhouettes copied. Coca-Cola has worked with Visualead to start Visual QR Codes and it allows customers to verify its authenticity by simply scanning the code.Kumar thought of closing down her business and becoming a full-time artist. He allegedly went to court against an ethnic wear firm and won the case. The reality turned out to be much worse than she had imagined.Worse still, there were wedding blogs with customer reviews on how the Chandni Chowk shop was a must visit for dirt-cheap copies of designer lehengas. After that experience we register all our designs.Fashion Design Council of India, chairman Sunil Sethi has seen many such incidents take place and often tries in his personal capacity to soothe many a ruffled feathers by inviting both warring parties to negotiate. Good brands have to stay ahead of competition by continuously innovating and creating trends. She filed nine cases and won all of them after eight years. We are doing that by launching our new menswear bridge to luxury brand by opening two such flagship stores in Delhi in March 2020," says Shantanu. Designer Vaishali Shadangdule says plagiarism always existed. No one can copy Coca Cola abroad and get away with it
He said all glitches and loopholes in implementation of GST will be removed within a year of its implementation."Industry should not measure the execution of GST in its first phase of three months since it is such a vast tax reform and the government should be given a minimum of year. GST on e-waste has been slashed to 5 per cent from 28 per cent.for its perfect implementation," the minister said.Job works like zari, imitation, food items and printing items would attract 5 per cent tax instead of 12 per cent, while salwar suit in a three-piece set has been classified as fabric and 5 per cent GST would be levied on it.Tax on stationery items, stones used for flooring (other than marble and granite), diesel engine parts and pump parts has been cut to 18 per cent from 28 per cent.Food packets given to school kids under ICDS will attract 5 per cent tax instead of 12 per cent. The GST Council will continue to rationalise rates going forward and the highest tax slab of 28 per cent would be gradually brought down, Minister of State for Finance Shiv Pratap Shukla said.The Goods and Services Tax (GST) has a four-tier structure of 5, 12, 18 and 28 per cent.Unbranded namkeen, unbranded ayurvedic medicine, sliced dried mango and khakra will now attract 5 per cent GST lower from 12 per cent. GST, which unified over a dozen local taxes, was rolled out from July 1."The GST Council has already taken pro-active measures in rationalising GST rates in the recent past and the trend would continue in future wherever the taxation is deemed to be slightly on the higher side...."The 28 per cent GST tax slab would fall as per genuine and legitimate aspirations of the people," Shukla was quoted as saying in a statement by PHD Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Also, GST on man-made yarn used in textile sector has been reduced from 18 per cent to 12 per cent. While majority of common use items have been exempted from GST, 28 per cent tax is levied on luxury, demerit China two way stretch fabric and sin goods.The GST Council, chaired by Finance Minister Arun Jaitley and comprising his state counterparts, at its meeting yesterday lowered tax rates on 27 items
Factories keep a tab on the workers’ health, conducting regular blood tests to check haemoglobin levels and ensure nutritious food if workers have anaemia," he added.While India’s Factories Act requires medical dispensaries to be run by qualified nurses or doctors, some small factories flout the law, said Manivelan Rajamanickkam, the top official for occupational and environmental health in Tamil Nadu state."They are depressing days and the pills helped," said the factory worker in Tamil Nadu, India’s southern textile hub. "It became a cycle I was not able to break."I was always told this happens to everyone, it’s normal and I shouldn’t fuss," Selvi said, sitting outside her home in Dindigul district.From then on she kept quiet and asked for painkillers but six months later felt her insides "burning" and fell ill, forcing her to take 10 days off work and lose wages."We have given clear instructions to our members to be sensitive during such times (menstruation)," said Selvaraju Kandaswamy, general secretary of the Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), a trade body representing 500-odd factories."In many instances, the toilets are deliberately kept dirty so that the women will refrain from using them and thereby not take restroom breaks.
The pills that are consumed the most are the ones for stomach ache, but I don’t know their names or their side effects," said the woman. is alarming.Many of the women said it took them years to realise the damage the medication had done as they were never warned about side effects, with health problems ranging from depression and anxiety to urinary tract infections, fibroids, and miscarriages."We ."Social stigma and taboos around menstruation in India are exploited by factory supervisors and managers, said James Victor, head of labor rights charity Serene Secular Social Service Society. The idea is to extract maximum work.Activists, academics and doctors have voiced concerns that female workers’ lives were being tightly controlled, from toilet breaks to periods, to keep production lines running as India’s garment sector faces ever greater demands from Western brands.Selvi decided to stop taking the drugs after her health worsened, but said she was scared the damage had been done. "But compliance, especially in smaller factories, is a problem.""We will soon be doing surveillance across factories to get a real picture that will reflect the problems workers face.. "So after Blue custom Polyester stretch Fabric Suppliers a point, I stopped fussing. "It is difficult but I manage.MONEY OR HEALTH?In each factory, a supervisor known as the "timekeeper" monitors workers’ hours and bathroom breaks and often manages a small medical dispensary for workers suffering aches and pains."Four years later, the salary is still the same, the work hours are the same and armed with her medicine box, the time keeper is always watching our every move."Two manufacturers’ associations representing hundreds of factories said protecting workers’ health was a priority."It is an issue no one talks about or acknowledges but everyone knows about.Medical tests found that Sudha - who did not give her surname for fear of reprisals - had fibroids, which are non-cancerous growths that develop in or around the uterus.Workers get barely five minutes a day to use the restroom and many are thwarted by long queues, found a 2016 study by charity Community Awareness Research Education Trust (CARE-T)."The pills they seem to be given are basically causing a hormonal imbalance in their bodies," she said.One "time keeper," who spoke on condition of anonymity to protect her job, said her role mainly involved providing painkillers to the 4,000 female workers under her watch.But two doctors who analysed the pills said they were non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs - similar to ibuprofen and Advil - that could help relieve menstrual cramps but were known to have possible harmful side-effects if taken frequently.Instead of being given spare sanitary pads or allowed longer bathroom breaks, women were handed pills that stop their periods and were harassed for working slowly, according to Victor.."My body feels weak after the last couple of years working in the factory," Sudha added."The visible symptoms are nausea and vomiting."STIGMA AND SHAMESelvi does not like to talk about her periods.Female workers said in many instances, dustbins were not cleared, regularly making the toilets impossible to use.Kanaga Marimuthu took medication every month for almost a year until she noticed a white discharge followed by aches, pains and a fever - then her periods stopped.."Peter McAllister, head of the ETI that represents about 66 companies in the garment sector - most of whom source from India - said his organisation had only recently heard of the practice.The women who spoke to the Thomson Reuters Foundation - most of whom were aged 15 to 25 - said they were always told to swallow the pills in front of the overseer, never knowing the name of the drugs or being warned about possible side-effects.They identified the pills only by colour, size and shape.″(Some) workers take up to three days off during their periods and that impacts production," said Balamurugan, who took pills during her periods at her old spinning mill job.Growing pressure from big brands on suppliers to deliver clothes ever-quicker and cheaper is fuelling exploitation from a lack of bathroom breaks to verbal abuse, labor activists said."
"With ability to produce a diverse range of products, India has the potential to become the one-stop sourcing destination for brands and retailers Polyester Stretch Garment Fabric Company of ASEAN nations," the minister highlighted.ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) is a multilateral body whose member countries include Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei, Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, Malaysia, the Philippines and Vietnam."A new friendship (referring to India-ASEAN relations) that we can forge to ensure that we give better manufacturing opportunities, better wage opportunities and also help strengthen our legacies in the handloom and handicraft sectors," said the minister.."In the year 2016, India exported textiles and apparel worth USD 1,203 million to ASEAN and imported textiles and apparel worth USD 546 million from ASEAN," Irani said, adding that this is just a monetary testimonial to how we can go forward."I am hopeful that this is just one of the many areas where we can participate and leverage our strengths," Irani observed.She said there exists an opportunity for India to attract textile manufacturers of ASEAN nations to invest in manufacturing in India to cater to both domestic market within the country and the export markets across the world.Addressing a seminar on India-ASEAN Weaving Textiles Relations, Irani said she is hopeful that the programme is the beginning of a new era in the textiles sector.Addressing a conference in New Delhi, the minister said India has strengths in production and exports of almost all kinds of textiles and apparel including all handloom and handicraft products that demonstrate the unique skills of the countrys weavers and artisans.New Delhi: India has potential to become the one-stop sourcing destination for brands and retailers from ASEAN as opportunities exist for textile manufacturers from the 10-nation bloc to invest in New Delhi and cater to the domestic market as well as exports, Textiles Minister Smriti Irani said on Tuesday
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